Raw Material Shortages Force Lash Brands to Explore Alternative Fibers

The false eyelash industry, a cornerstone of global beauty markets, is grappling with an unprecedented challenge: raw material shortages. For years, brands have relied on a handful of core materials—chiefly synthetic fibers like polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), natural options such as silk, and occasionally human hair—to craft products that balance durability, flexibility, and aesthetics. However, since 2022, disruptions spanning supply chains, geopolitical tensions, and surging demand have strained access to these staples, forcing manufacturers and brands to pivot toward alternative fibers. This shift, while born of necessity, is reshaping product innovation and sustainability priorities across the sector.

The Roots of the Shortage

The crisis stems from a confluence of factors. PBT, the workhorse of synthetic lash production due to its heat resistance and ability to hold curls, has seen prices surge by 35% since 2021, according to industry data from the Synthetic Fiber and Filament Association. This spike is tied to shortages in purified terephthalic acid (PTA), a key PBT feedstock, driven by reduced output from Chinese chemical plants amid energy restrictions. Meanwhile, natural materials like silk, prized for their lightweight feel, face supply crunches due to climate-related disruptions in sericulture hubs (e.g., India’s 2023 monsoon delays) and rising demand from luxury fashion, diverting silk from beauty applications. Compounding these issues, post-pandemic beauty rebounds—with global false lash sales growing 18% in 2023, per Statista—have amplified competition for limited resources.

Brands Turn to Unconventional Solutions

Faced with tight supplies, lash brands are experimenting with three broad categories of alternative fibers, each with unique trade-offs:

1. Biobased Fibers

Sustainability-focused brands are leading the charge here, leveraging plant-derived materials like corn starch, algae, and cellulose. For instance, U.S.-based brand Lashify recently launched a “EcoLash” line using polylactic acid (PLA), a biodegradable polymer made from fermented corn starch. While PLA reduces carbon footprints by 68% compared to PBT (per LCA studies), it struggles with curl retention—lasting only 5–7 wears versus PBT’s 10+. Similarly, UK startup BloomLashes uses algae-based fibers, which biodegrade in 90 days but require specialized manufacturing to avoid brittleness.

2. Recycled & Upcycled Materials

Recycled polyester (rPET), sourced from plastic bottles, is gaining traction for its circular appeal. Korean brand Dashing Diva’s “RecycleLash” collection, launched in 2024, uses rPET blended with small amounts of PBT to mimic the latter’s elasticity. Early customer feedback highlights improved softness but notes inconsistencies in fiber thickness. Meanwhile, upcycled materials like post-industrial silk waste—reclaimed from textile mills—are being repurposed by artisanal brands, though scalability remains a hurdle.

3. Engineered Synthetics

To bridge performance gaps, material science firms are developing next-gen synthetics. BASF’s “LashFlex,” a modified nylon-6,6, was unveiled in 2023 with enhanced flexibility and heat resistance, aiming to replace PBT. Testing by L’Oréal-owned brand Ardell found LashFlex matched PBT’s curl retention but cost 20% more to produce. Similarly, Japan’s Toray Industries has introduced “MicroCurve,” a ultra-fine polyester fiber that reduces irritation, targeting sensitive-skin consumers.

Challenges on the Horizon

While innovation is accelerating, alternatives face hurdles. Cost remains a primary barrier: biobased and engineered fibers can raise production costs by 15–40%, forcing brands to either absorb margins or pass hikes to consumers. Performance trade-offs—such as reduced durability or inconsistent quality—also risk alienating loyal customers accustomed to PBT or silk. Additionally, regulatory uncertainty looms: the EU’s upcoming Cosmetics Regulation (EC 1223/2009) may impose stricter biodegradability standards, potentially phasing out non-compostable synthetics entirely by 2027.

The Path Forward

The shortage crisis is catalyzing a broader reckoning: the lash industry, long focused on aesthetics, is now prioritizing supply chain resilience and sustainability. Brands are investing in dual sourcing (e.g., partnering with both Asian and European material suppliers) and vertical integration (acquiring fiber production facilities) to reduce dependency. Simultaneously, consumer education is critical: surveys by Mintel